Sitting on your surfboard, you glance over your shoulder and see an oncoming wave. By now, your eyes and brain have learned to time this feat just right so that you can catch and ride the wave. You begin to paddle hard, feeling the acceleration as the water boosts you to match its speed. As you stand and balance on the board, you show off with some turns. Then, you decide to end your ride by stepping back on the board and drop the tail into the water, putting on the brakes. Ever wonder about the physics behind the sport of surfing and how everything comes into play just right so you can catch that perfect wave?
Gravity and Buoyancy
While you are lying on your board waiting to catch a wave, both gravity and buoyancy are at work. Gravity pulls on every inch of you and your board. Your centre of mass is typically located behind your navel in the middle of the body when you stand upright. It is this centre point that allows you to rest in balance. Buoyancy is an upward force that is created by resting waters pushing on the board. Also known as hydrostatic force, it is exerted by the water onto every inch of the board, particularly at the board’s centre of mass.












